Signature Wardrobe Regency Empire Line Outfit

Signature Wardrobe Regency Empire Line Outfit

When you hear the term “empire line outfit” (or dress), it refers to the signature style of Emperor Napoleon I’s first wife Joséphine de Beauharnais.

Or, if you were English (and at war with France), it would be Regency style. (Think Jane Austen and Pride and Prejudice). Though technically Regency followed Empire.

The empire style has its roots in the 18th century Greek Revival movement, and the main reason for its popularity was its relaxed informality.

In France in particular, if you didn’t want to attract the attention of Madame La Guillotine, you put away your powdered wig, corsets, and panniers and took to a less formal, more natural and democratic style.

The empire style was so natural you could clearly see the body under the dress, a good eyeful of bosom, and an utterly scandalous amount of bare arm.

Sadly, by 1820 the fashion had passed and we were back into the heavily corseted Victorian style hourglass outfit.

Climate/Location/Activities

I think an empire line outfit makes an excellent all-purpose outfit; it can be dressed up or down for most climates, locations, and activities.

Except maybe the gym.

In fact, another reason for the empire line’s popularity was its comparative lightness and flexibility made it incredibly comfortable for a long night of dancing. And its simple structure, in a durable new cotton fabric made it much easier to take care of so your servants could wash it more frequently.

Presence

According to a number of internet sources, the empire line is useful for disguising any number of figure “faults” from bulging bellies to heaped hips to short stature. Not that I believe in figure faults.

The real reason an empire line outfit works for everyone no matter their size and shape, is Geometry.

A dress that fits just under your bust divides your body into the same proportions you see in the Ancient Greek statues. It’s what I call the “Strangely Interesting Line” (you can read more about it in Build Your Signature Wardrobe).

Clothes

The identifying features of an empire line outfit are a closely fitted top that ends just below the bust, with a long skirt that loosely skims the body.

A dress is more in keeping with the style, but providing you get the geometry right, you could wear an empire line top with jeans or a skirt.

Or if you were inclined, tuck a closely fitted top into a very high waisted skirt.

Underclothes

During the period, you wore a light chemise (to protect the dress), topped with a type of corset that served to support the breasts rather than constrict the waist. Then a petticoat, which was a detached layer of your dress; the hem was decorated to look attractive when glimpsed as you lifted the outer layer. And you lifted it frequently, to protect it from damp ground or damage as you climbed stairs. Given that the previous dress styles didn’t allow much in the way of bending or sitting, it wasn’t customary to wear underpants at the time.

You can please yourself on this one, but I would advise that you embrace your naturalness and avoid spanx.

Shoes

You wore flat slippers made from leather or fabric. When you went outside, you’d put overshoes on to protect your fragile slippers. Only men wore heels; they were trying to look taller and more powerful.

Despite what some “experts” say, I think you can wear flat shoes with dresses; the main thing is for you to feel comfortable, because when you are comfortable you feel more confident.

Accessories

You would wear a wool or silk shawls and a cap to keep warm in your light frock in your drafty old house. You might accentuate your “waist” with a contrast ribbon belt.

When you went out, you would add a long coat in a similar line (pelisse) or cape. The most popular was an empire “waist-length” jacket (spencer) with a long cloak. Not to mention gloves, a small drawstring purse (reticule), a parasol for sun protection, and a fan.

So, pretty much the same as you would usually wear.

Grooming

Inspired by Greek statues, hair was parted in the middle with short curls on either side and a loose bun at the back. It was common to wear hats in and out of doors, probably for warmth and hiding manky hair, though for evening events you might tie ribbons through your hair. During this time women stopped wearing head coverings indoors, and very daring, (some might say racy) women left their homes without hats!

Wear your hair and makeup as you like them, according to where you are going and what you are doing.

Wrap Up

I like an empire line outfit very much. In fact, I like them so much that I bought one for my 2016 Summer Wardrobe (the update is here).


Painting of archetypal Empire Line Outfit Madame Bonaparte dans son salon de Malmaison 1801 by François Gérard (1770 – 1837). Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons


For more, see my wardrobe planning page.

Signature Wardrobe Planning

Buying clothes seems easy, but getting matching ones that fit you and your lifestyle and share washing instructions is more difficult.

Signature Wardrobe Planning shares a plan for buying the right clothes at the right price for the right life. So you always have something to wear that makes you look and feel confident.

Discover the four-step system for developing your wardrobe plan. Buy now:

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